- Jun 27, 2025
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mopar4don
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So I have a problem with the profile of the hood not matching the fender.
I don't expect perfection but this seems a bit off.
The hood was damaged on the drivers side leading edge and I am sure this is why it is off as the passenger side is good.
I have already split the hood (bare metal area) and got the profile to match much better, but I am still off.
I am thinking of using USC All-Metal along the edges but am wondering if this would not work well as the hood gets shut. Could the All-Metal chip of fall off?
Wondering how the body guys would fix this????
1st position
close up
the hood drops about a 1/16
2nd position
Hood is about an 1/8 lower than the flexible ruler
Comparing to the passenger side
1st position
2nd position
The hood and fender drops about 1/16 or less
@eldubb440
Any and all comments are appreciated
Last edited:
- Jun 27, 2025
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#41
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I don't see any other practical way of leveling this out if you want a perfect finish. Chip Foose would lay and 1/16th of filler over the entire car.
- Jun 27, 2025
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R
R413
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Why is USC all metal better than a quality bondo?
- Jun 27, 2025
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mopar4don
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I know it is used in place of lead joints. Roof to quarter seam, quarter to rocker seam, and a-pillar to cowl seam.
It has aluminum added to give it more strength.
It does not hold moisture like normal filler.
Not applicable for me but it can be powder coated.
- Jun 27, 2025
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eldubb440
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whatever it takes Don......... I've cut/split/welded in severe cases......... I had issues twice where someone didnt rough up the metal under all metal and it let go; that's not the all metal's fault......... it likes it rough
you could build up the edge with weld to fill the big voids, then fill
you could get 1/16 rod and panel bond it to the edge where needed, once cured you can grind into shape and fill it
you could also use body filler as the quick fix and no one would know unless you whack it with a hammer
- Jun 27, 2025
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Coelacanth
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I'm no bodywork expert, and I'm sure this wouldn't be easy, but it seems both the droop and the inward gap could be resolved if the corner of the hood edge could be carefully twisted or bent back up. That would both level the front edge and narrow the gap. That's the reverse direction of how it likely got damaged.
- Jun 27, 2025
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MarPar
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eldubb440 said:
whatever it takes Don......... I've cut/split/welded in severe cases......... I had issues twice where someone didnt rough up the metal under all metal and it let go; that's not the all metal's fault......... it likes it rough
you could build up the edge with weld to fill the big voids, then fill
you could get 1/16 rod and panel bond it to the edge where needed, once cured you can grind into shape and fill it
you could also use body filler as the quick fix and no one would know unless you whack it with a hammer
marine tex?
- Jun 27, 2025
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Demonic
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If you had some sort of custom fixture, a way to hold it and a tiny pull on the last 1/16" or so.
- Jun 27, 2025
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JG71B
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#41 said:
I don't see any other practical way of leveling this out if you want a perfect finish. Chip Foose would lay and 1/16th of filler over the entire car.
Anything"straight" has at least a "skim" coat
- Jun 27, 2025
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eldubb440
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MarPar said:
marine tex?
I prefer Marine Tex; but I'm not opposed to AllMetal......
- Jun 28, 2025
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SGTPaul
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I see people add filler to the ends of door at the strike end to flush it out to the quarter all the time. Door get opened and close a lot more than a hood. Am I missing something? Seems like it would be ok. Yes?
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